Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors equally swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive group of global cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city is hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
